OMG...Delicious. You must try.

While researching recipes and pondering what I might bring to a potluck this weekend, I uncovered this. Pretty funny.

Davis Ranch, it's worth the drive...

Site of the day: The Chocolate Guild. Very useful & informative. I hear it's getting a facelift soon, too. Even better.

Also: I heard a rumor that the crepe/yogurt place on Alhambra will be closing. I used to go there before Big Spoon opened, and then after Big Spoon opened, RS hardly ever had sugar-free, and I liked being in control of my yogurt portion and toppings, so I have been going to BS ever since. Still, I hate to see a Subway or something in that spot. :(

Interview Part One (as published in the magazine)




A few weeks ago, I interviewed Biba Caggiano about her restaurant’s 20th anniversary and her new cookbook. Here is part one (of two) of our conversation. Enjoy!

SM: It’s been a while since we last sat down with you. So honored to be chatting with you!!

BC: Yes, thank you. Yes, I was on the cover, what 5 or 6 years ago?

SM: Yes, I’ve only been with Senior Magazine for about a year now, I am so overwhelmed to be here with you!

BC: Oh please, don’t say that, I am just like everybody else in this world.

SM: It’s true, though! (I laugh). OK, so, this restaurant’s been here for twenty years now. Please tell me about the Old Tavern Building and how your restaurant came to be located where it is.

BC: Well the building selected me, really. It was built in 1861, it was a landmark. It was considered the biggest watering hole in Sacramento. When I found it, they were beginning to renovate it, to fix it, and I don’t live too far away from here. When I saw it, it was such a beautiful building, it would be great if I could put a restaurant there.

SM: What were some of the dishes that you put on the menu when you first opened?

BC: I tell you that my menu when I opened was quite small. It doesn’t look at all like what I have now. I started out with the type of food that I knew better, that I knew well enough. I began with the dishes of my region, Emilia-Romagna, we began by making homemade pasta, (which nobody in Sacramento was doing at that time), we did all the traditional sauces. I began slowly with the recipes that I knew very well.

SM: So they were comparable to the recipes in your first cookbook (Northern Italian Cooking), then?

BC: Yes, actually, yes. My book came out before I opened the restaurant, it’s about 25 years old now.

SM: How old were your children when your restaurant opened?

BC: Well, one (child) was in college, and the other one was about fourteen…so, one was gone, and the other one was driving me crazy! (laughs)

SM: So how did you balance your home and work life so successfully?

BC: It was difficult. This is one of the hardest jobs in the world. I don’t know the exact number, but there is a ninety-something percentage of failure (in the restaurant business), so it’s really very tough. I started with no knowledge of the business end of the restaurant. What I knew was the food. I had been teaching cooking classes before, for about seventeen years, so I knew the food that I taught people was, people went crazy for, but I didn’t know anything about the business. So we hired good people in the kitchen, and each person helped out in the ways they could best contribute, but it was tough at first. I would work eighteen hours a day.

SM: When was the turnaround? When did you sort of see things begin to be profitable, and start to develop a real customer base?

BC: It was not the first year. I would say after three or four years the restaurant began to do decently. But I was driven, and I wasn’t going to fail. I was willing to work as many hours as it took and I am a very fast learner. I put everything I had into this.

SM: Tell me about your new book. I’ve heard it’s almost like of a tour book (of Italian cities) with recipes?

BC: Yes, exactly. I said, what can I do that is new, after seven books? You know, you can’t repeat yourself. A lot of my customers would say, “Biba, I am going to Italy, do you know of any good places where we can go to eat?” I say, “Sure!” See, I have files, I have been keeping things forever (lists of restaurants). I would jot down places to remember (that I visited during my travels). I said, to myself. “Why don’t I do something like that? Why don’t I do a very simple book, with recipes that are very accessible to everybody?” Another thing people ask is “Which of your books is the simplest? I like to cook, but I don’t like involved things.” So, I listened. In this book I am doing recipes that are approachable. Food that is good, but not intimidating. Plus, a little bit of a travel book with my favorite restaurants and food markets. You will see where to go and find out why people are so passionate about food!

My interview with Biba Caggiano continues next month. In it, we discuss her cancer remission, her milestone birthday (it was October 18th) and her upcoming holiday plans.



um, Rad!

Special thanks to M. Dunne of the major newspaper of our city!!

I read some of the stuff he's written about her before I met BC, and it really helped structure my interview (along with the cookbooks I checked out at the library). I was happy to go in prepared. Usually (admittedly) I am not that prepared because I handle so many other things in addition to my column. Not that I am complaining––I like what I am doing––but it is hard to be great at one thing when one is pulled in 700 different directions. ;)

Swiped from Vanilla Garlic:


"5 Ick Foods

After reading the posts on the attitudes of picky eaters at Cooking with Amy, and Tigers & Strawberries, I got to thinking. I myself am not a picky eater and don't have a picky eater attitude, though my mom is sure to have a story or two that might state otherwise from way back when. Now it's more like "Ox tail? Pile 'em on!" "Fried scorpions? SURE!" "It might kill me? Life's about risk, right?" It's all about experience."

Here then VG, are my 6 Ick Foods

1. Mussels - Too metallic for me. That's the best word I can use to describe why I don't like. Besides their nasty little beards.

2. Chicken Nuggets from McDonalds - Um...have you ever cut one open and looked at it?

3. Fried Chicken - OK, I will eat SOME kinds of fried chicken (rarely) but the skin is just nasty, people. I can hear ya'll getting fatter.

4. BBQ Ribs - An ex-boyfriend used to eat these and get sauce all in his beard (while at a restaurant) and act like BBQ sauce was not free flowing from his chin. Gross. I am not opposed to beards or facial hair, but could ya pack some pre-m*istened lemon scented towelettes on your person next time? Thanks.

5. OVERCOOKED vegetables. Any vegetable (especially greens) that have spent too much time in boiling water or slathered in butter or lard.

6. Doritos, Cheetos, Ruffles, or most foods made by Frito Lay. I do however, really like Fritos. Weird. I think its the whole fake powdered cheese getting on my fingers that grosses me out.

Now I will add to this and post my favorite "ICK" foods. Things I love that a lot of people don't like/won't eat/don't eat.

1. Canned Pumpkin

2. Raw Broccoli

3. Spaghetti Squash

4. Raw Eggplant

5. Raw Parsnips

I am not sure if I have trained myself to like this stuff or not, but most of the items are on my grocery list every week. Speaking of that, I really need to go the grocery tonight to shop for a weekend potluck/costume party--I am going to need one night to cook for it. I picked up my costume today at lunchtime while Evangeline's was fairly empty. I was not going to even attempt to go there after work. Too crowded!

I think my new favorite beer is draught Tecaté. Does anyone taste undertones of banana in it or is it just me? Yum...

I am consoling myself with my new best friend Hayley, who I referred to previously in this post.


There's only 96 out of 779 cases left. That's because it was so delicious and everyone slurped it up at The Big Crush event. So, I just bought six bottles. Mmmmmm....I want a case, but I have a case and a half at home already of various other wines.....No, I am not going to drink the new six all at once. One of them I am going to bring home for Christmas, my mom wants to try it since I gave it such high marks. I am going to go back to Amador in the next week or two to pick them up, since I didn't want to pay $20 shipping, and I want to pick out a punkin from the Amador Flower Farm. I love that place.

OMG! It's Myspace for bakers! Bakespace.com. I am so glad I got to register my screenname before anyone took it!!

Also, this is older news, but, you can still go to Kashi.com, and sign up to try their new product, a Kashi Granola Bar, "Seven Whole Grains & Sesame, baked up with the wholesome goodness of roasted nuts, whole seeds and warm spices." They will send you their newest snack in the mail, because they want you to come back and give your opinion on their web site.

Trader Joe's has a new web site. I love Hawaii, but I could use a little less of it on a grocery site. Can't believe what a mess happened yesterday on the islands. At least most people are getting their power back and flights are back on to and from so folks aren't stranded...

Oh Amelie...

Finally I opened the Amelie that Spankas Hills, doh! I mean Mankas Hills sent me.
They also sent a card with their tasting notes on it, which, I did NOT read until after I tasted it, because I wanted to gather my own opinion before I was influenced by someone else's notes. :)

First of all, thank God I took notes while I was at the restaurant...haha, just kidding. I DID take notes, but I DO still remember what the wine was like... Because I did NOT have a tequila after dinner at Monkey Bar...anyway...
This wine is a 2004 Cab-Merlot. I drank it this evening with my meal at a very nice restaurant (that serves Northern Italian cuisine). I will note that one should have (in my opinion) pretty heavy food to pair with this wine. This is not a sushi wine, or even a seafood wine really. It's more of a rabbit, steak, veal wine. I had sea bass with it, and my friend...let's call her, Ms. M, she had rabbit. Oh man. It paired so much better with the vino. About the wine: It had a lot of berry on the nose--noteably blueberry, blackberry, and some plum. The more swirl, the more vibrant the bouquet. There were also notes of vanilla, pepper, and whip out the saddle, Mr. Ed... we've got some leather in the house.... Upon tasting brought forth black cherry and plum.... tart, not too acidic, not too much heat. A good wine overall. Not my favorite, but, I like zinfandel best, what can I say?? :) Anyway, thanks to the kind folks at Mankas Hills for providing my beverage for the evening...

Thanks Mankas Hills!
Love, cakegrrlxoxo

Dinner at Biba Restaurant

I met Ms. M at a little after 7:30. The gracious hosts were kind enough to make extra room for us in the lounge, as seating in the dining room was impossible on such short notice (decided we were going to dine there two days ago!)

I walked there (as I always do if I am going to drink) and it took a minute to compose myself when I arrived. I am not sure what it is about this restaurant. It might be the Old Tavern building in which it is housed...maybe it is the legend who dwells there daily... I think part of it is that I feel...so privileged to be there when I come in the front door. The piano is playing (I was so jazzed to hear the Arthur theme "Arthur's Theme (Best That You Can Do)" while we were having our first sips of wine), there are sophisticated people all around...median age probably about 55... I like that. I look up to those people. I didn't really feel like I was in Sacramento. It felt like I was in NY! Surreal but awesome.

Before I get too off track, I sat down with Ms. M who was happily sipping a daquiri and waiting for me. I greeted her and we looked over the menu to decide what to order.

The Drink:
2004 Amelie Mankas Hills Cabernet-Merlot

I brought it with me because I simply don't drink alone at my house anymore. And the kind folks at MH are eagerly awaiting my review as they keep googling my blog and looking for it. ;) The reason for the delay in the wine review is...when I am not eating out, I am on a really strict diet, so that means no empty cals. So, I was more than happy to bring the bottle and split it with Ms. M.


get yer swirl on...

And, a little bit of breadstick...these were a little too garlicky for my taste, and nearly overpowered my wine. I should have stuck to the bread on the other side of the basket (but I didnt know it was there until somewhere near the middle of dinner. That's probably a good thing. ;)


garlic breadsnaps

The Appetizer

We decided on the sweetbreads with pancetta and mushroom

(Animelle con Pancetta e Fungi).

They were sauteed with a Limoncello Butter. I had never tried sweetbreads before, I admit. Ms. M says she enjoyed the sb's from the Waterboy a little more because they were prepared a little differently. For me, I tried a few bites, and it's not something of which I would have an entire dish. I like the mouthfuls I had, just as I enjoyed the first bite of oyster I had in LA two weeks ago. :) The sweetbreads were flavorful and rich, butter and pancetta will do that, though! Though now, I am curious about the Waterboy's style of sb....


Animelle *baby calf* con Pancetta *pork!* e Fungi*mushrooms*

Primi (the first course)

For our next dish, we chose the fresh-made gnocchi.
It was one of the "specials", officially titled by the two of us as Gnocchi with Shittake Mushrooms & Sundried Tomatoes in an Herbed Butter Sauce

I LOVED the tender gnocchi. It was fabulous. As were the mushrooms. I love mushrooms and there were plenty on the plate within the sauce. The sauce, however, I was not overly impressed by. There was too much garlic. It was seasoned well as far as the other herbs and the salt level was good, but too much garlic there. A better sauce and it would have knocked my pumps off, because I could have eaten a whole plate of the gnocchi if it had pesto, or pomodoro, or h*ll, even honey or chocolate sauce on it. You think I am kidding? Not so...



Gnocchi with Shittake Mushrooms & Sundried Tomatoes in an Herbed Butter Sauce

Moving right along...

The Main Course

Branzino al Cartoccio

I ordered the sea bass en papillote. I am quite fond of seafood baked in parchment.
It's healthier, lighter... I don't quite feel like hanging myself so much after I eat meals like this. ;) It was light (like I said!) and flaky. It was topped with sundried tomatoes, capers and olives. I would have liked more olivey goodness, but it was baked perfectly and it was quite balanced in seasoning this time. There was a nice lemon-esque infusion in the olive oil it was prepared with. This dish was definitely something I would recommend. It was served with swiss chard. I did not enjoy the greens because I felt they were overcooked and overly buttered and cheesed.
I DID really enjoy the polenta (I ordered this a la carte). I really love polenta and after reading about it in Biba's first cookbook, I was really craving it. It was so buttery and I totally wanted to finish BOTH servings they gave me on my plate. They were about the size of a hockeypuck...


Branzino al Cartoccio

Roasted Polenta and Swiss chard

Ms. M's Dish...

Coniglio alla Cacciatora con Peperoni al Balsamico e Polenta

This dish was the braised rabbit with red pepper sauce.
I really thought it was the better of the two dishes, but I have a strong love affair with red bell peppers going on right now that nobody knows about. If you do not like red pepper, you will not enjoy this dish. It is the most prominent flavor even though the sauce contains onion, pancetta, red bell pepper, and balsamic v... The rabbit was so rich, very succulent! I had not tried rabbit since I was a small child and it was wonderful to be reacquainted to the taste in this way. It was served with polenta (that actually came with the dish). Polenta madness continues...look at the caramelization on those...Delicious and even more highly recommended.


Coniglio alla Cacciatora con Peperoni al Balsamico e Polenta (and lots of red pepper, and even more red pepper)

For dessert, we decided to walk across the street and toss Randy a few bones instead of getting anything my hips would regret. But, here's a peeky at the menu:



dessert menu eh...

As we finished dinner, Biba herself arrived at the restaurant. It was about 9:15 or so. I was so happy because Ms. M got her book signed and I got to speak with her again. I was wearing my darker hair and it was then I mentioned alopecia. I told her that is why I asked her about her cancer battle and her hairloss when I interviewed he on Thursday. Tonight she looked in my eyes and touched my face. Not once of the face touching, but twice!! She told me I have a beautiful head. ;) She understands. She knows what it's like. That was probably one of the most satisfying moments in my life so far. Maybe that sounds a little silly, but it means so much to me. I respect her so much. Biba came to Sacramento when there practically NO dining destinations at which to eat and nowhere to get quality ingredients to replicate fancy meals at home. It is because of people like her, RP, EJ and DC that Sacramento has a few higher end restaurants and specialty grocers now. So, maybe she's not the most famous person in the world, but she's as famous and notable to me as Keller or Robuchon because she works so hard and does not take her name, career, life, or family for granted. Her work is a bountiful amalgamation of complex, simple, rustic, classic dishes, served both in seven different publications and six days a week in the Old Tavern Building. Some dishes are complicated to prepare, yet the presentation remains unpretentious.

She is a kind and down-to-earth woman who would think I am silly to keep going on about her like this. She turns 70 on Wednesday and I wish her continued success and happiness for years to come!

Sweet: Michael Ruhlman has a blog!

The Biba Interview...

She was so nice and down to earth. It was... great. I am such a dork on this recording, but I hope I asked good questions. I love her accent. Is she not sooo interesting to listen to??? I was really happy to be there and felt really privileged. She even presented me with her new book and signed it to me. Um, rad!!!
I am going back for dinner sometime this week (on my own dime--I didn't have anything to eat tonight from there, as the interview was before they opened for dinner) Hopefully she will humor me and I can get a picture with her when I go back in this weekend. I'd like to wrangle someone into joining me, but I will probably end up solo. That's fine, too. I want to objectively review the food. I get $15 from work, so at least the tip is covered. HA!
Listen to the interview here:

la prima parte

la seconda parte

la terza parte

Tempi buoni!

Killing Me... :)
I am sitting here writing out questions for the interview, and flipping through the cookbook I got at the library yesterday. I know the pic is circa 1981, but I am salivating over a recipe for this:

Is it a cake? No. Cheesecake? No. It's pasticcio di maccheroni. It's pasta and pork loin and bechamel (my second favorite mother sauce)...on a crust, make that a double crust... I wish this was on the current menu...This column is going to be so fun to write...

I don't watch tv, but I will be watching this. So I guess I DO watch a little bit of the tube. But, I will be watching it from the treadmill at the gym, that's for sure. I can't sit still long enough if I am not at work or on the computer. I really love TC, though, so I am totally driving back out to the gym every Wednesday night. Looking forward to this season especially because there is a competitor on there from Lodi from the B & B where I am going to visit either this or next month when I tour Chocoholics.

Hmmm... Nutritional information for dishes at the Paragary's restaurants is coming soon on this web site: HealthyDiningFinder.com.

Goldilocks Has Found Her Porridge
(Best wine I have had in a long time!!!)

If you have never gone wine tasting with a dixie cup, I HIGHLY recommend that you try it. You can taste sooooo many different wines and still be able to really pick out good and bad by the end of the day! I found my favorite wine yesterday at Karmère. Unbelieveable. It's a zinfandel. It truly had all the best characteristics of several different wines. It was jammy and floral in the nose. The flavor span was so complex though! It was more than berries, it was richer than that...it moved into chocolate and caramel territory, but it was not too smoky...it was just so balanced. Not too acidic, not too basic. Just right!!

The only thing about the wine that was "negative" and now I am being nit picky, is that had a little too much tannin in the back, but some people really like that. Luckily, that's something that fades with age. So, if I did buy some, I would shelve it for a couple months to a year. Hell, I bet if you drank it now and just let it sit in a decanter for about six hours, that would be enough time to let it air out. A couple glasses of that and some artisan bread (il fornaio yah!)...Heaven.

The details: It's called the Empress Hayley 2004 Zinfandel. It's $14 a bottle. It didn't buy any yesterday, but I am really thinking about getting six bottles. The reason I didn't buy any yesterday is because I have about 18-20 bottles of wine here already (left from my website trade I did). And I hardly ever drink alone. I haven't even tried the Mankas Hills yet. But I swear... I am ready to make a purchase. It was THAT good. Just like finding the perfect dress or shoes. YUM!

I really LOVED that wine. I was glad that we were at the next to last winery we were visiting for the day, because as soon as I tasted this wine, I drank my second tasting instead of spitting or dumping it. And, THAT, is truly the point. Unless you like wine tasting because you get sloshed anyway, it's important to STAY SOBER the whole time so you can truly TASTE and SMELL the differences. You can truly begin to see what is garbage and what is not, even if you're not an expert. Of course what is garbage varies from person to person, but you'll be able to tell obvious differences from wine to wine if you aren't just guzzling it all down.

We hit Story Vineyards last. My all time favorite winery because of the staff and because of the view (not to mention the super wine). There were some amazing things going on in their barrels already. Stuff that was barreled THREE days ago (both their picnic hill and old vine zinfandel harvest)!! Can you believe that? Wine that should taste like juice/cider was incredibly comparable to some wines I have had that have been aged and then bottled a few years. So, when it IS ready...wow...

I was not looking for this I swear! But, it looks terrific. Tamale heaven...

Tomorrow:


You could drink wine.



or You could drink beer.

Either one sounds like a good time. Cheers to making it through another week in this messed up world...

This looks like a great time. Props to their graphic team.

What Would You Serve To Your Food Blogging Friends
for a Welcome Dinner Upon their First Visit to Your Home?

Describe a sort of "signature menu" revealing much of your personal cooking style and culinary preferences; it's up to you how many dishes you choose or if you prefer a buffet or a different way of presentation; let your fantasy play!

originally posted by Garrett of Vanilla Garlic.

CAKEGRRL'S MENU

Welcome Reception:

Fruits: Pineapple, Quince, Strawberry, Grapefruit, Oranges, Champagne Grapes, Apple, Pear

Vegetables: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Red Pepper, Radish, Baby Carrots, Snow Peas, Cucumber, Celery

Assorted Cheeses: Colby, White Cheddar, Pepperjack, Muenster, Bleu from Silverlake Cheese Shop

Pomegranate and Pistachio Studded Cream Cheese Dressing (fruit)

Kalamata Olive Hummus

Sundried Tomato Spread

Marinated Olives

Spicy Cashew Butter

Homemade Cheddar Cheese Straws & Parmesan Peppercorn Crackers


Mumm Napa Brut Prestige Sparkling Wine

-or-
Blueberry Lemoncake Martinis

Blueberry Stoli, Absolut Citron, Absolut Vanilia, Sugar Cookie Rim, Grand Marnier Macerated Blueberries, Lemon Wheel.

Upon Seating:

Cornucopia:

Ciabatta with Sesame Seed, Rosemary Foccacia, Olive Pugliese, Injera, Sourdough Roll, French Baguette, Cornbread Sticks, Buttermilk Biscuits

Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar

Unsalted Butter Rosettes

Clover Honey (bottled in Franklin, Ohio)

Kosher Salt &

Cracked Black and Pink Peppercorns

Amuse Bouche

Cakebreaded Tiger Prawn, Spicy Plum Reduction

Fiddlehead Sauvignon Blanc, Happy Canyon 2004

Main Course (choose one fish, one fowl, one mammal...ha!)

Lobster in Phyllo "Shells" with Saffron Butter Sauce

-or-

Guinness Battered Lake Erie Walleye Fillets, Malt Vinegar Reduction

Rosenblum Roussanne Fess Parker 2003

Kobe Beef "Pops" on Bamboo Skewers with Lemongrass Curry Sauce

-or-

Bourbon Ham with Dijon and Gingersnap Crust

Roasted Chicken, Persimmon & Vidalia Enchiladas with Cinnamon Mole Sauce

-or-

Cap'n Peanut Butter Crunch Coated Chicken on Silver Dollar Johnnny Cakes, Sorghum Molasses



Merryvale Profile Meritage 2002

Accompaniments (pick two):

Rosemary, Olive Oil, & Balsamic Roasted Vegetables: Red Onion, Parsnip, Carrot, Red, Gold, Blue, and Sweet Potato

-or-

Pommes Frites served on the Bee with Saffron Ketchup, Malt Vinegar, Sea Salt

-or-

Adobo Spiced Tostones


-or-

Hilljack Cauliflower Salad-Cauliflower, Mayo, Bacon, Parmesan, Sugar, Iceberg Base

Dessert (Choose as many as you wish. Isn't this the most important course?)

Amaretto, Creme de Cacao & Van Gogh Vodka Chocolate Martinis with Floating Toasted Marshmallows & Graham Cracker Dust

Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate Chunk King's Hawaiian Bread Pudding, Kahlua & Kona Coffee Sauce, Scoop Vanilla Frozen Custard

Peanut Butter Beignets with Caramel Frosting, Banana Schapps (flambe!)

Chocolate Bourbon Fudge Brownies with Praline Ice Cream (more pyrotechnics involved)

Fried Coconut and Red Bean Ice Cream in Fortune Cookie Bowl

Triple Chocolate Stack Cake with Birthday Buttercream Frosting, sprinkles, lots of celebratory candles, singing, fanfare. Still more fire involved.

Decor:

Several candles, flowers, huge table, white china, big utenstils. Smiles & laughter, and free flowing red wine.

*Note: I didn't mean to leave any food out that I enjoy. In fact, I am sure I left out several and I will wish I would have included them as I continue thinking of this post. If you're allergic to things or have food restrictions (in a perfect world we could eat gluten/nuts/dairy without adverse reaction), this menu is probably not for you. I don't mean to leave out vegans/vegetarians either--but I guess I kind of did. Anymore selection on that menu though, and I would have a cookbook. ;)

"'Ono' you di-ent!"
A Fins location is now open on Fair Oaks at Munroe. Has anyone ever eaten there before? It doesn't look like much from outside, but who knows. Everything but the dessert menu looks good. ....Then, I get to the dessert part of their offerings and I get angry... Why bother to even have dessert on the menu when you are just going to treat it like such an afterthought? I do see they left out creme brulee in their list of tired favorites... ewww. I do hope the entrees are good. If it's seafood, I'm ready to try it!

He Said, She Said (He said it better, but I have to write for a particular audience, so I am exempt from using swear words, being blatantly honest and showing my usual crass side.)


For a much more accurate and hilarious depiction of the meal at Roy's, head over to Gastrologica, and read Steve's shakedown of the chow. Keep eating, and if you're not listening to Gastrologica by now, what the hell is wrong with you?

Roy's Restaurant Hawaiian Fusion Cuisine

What is the best meal you have ever eaten? For me, it was during a visit to Honolulu, Hawaii. I have had many delicious meals since that trip, but nothing has quite matched in texture, flavor, variety, freshness or uniqueness. When I heard about Roy's Hawaiian Fusion Restaurant in Los Angeles, I wanted to examine whether or not the food served in this mainland restaurant could replicate the Hawaiian island sapor.

The Face Behind the Fusion

Roy Yamaguchi, the founder of Roy's Restaurant, was born in Tokyo, the son of an American soldier from Maui and an Okinawan mother. During his childhood, he made several impressionable trips to Maui to visit his grandparents who owned a tavern in Wailuku.

By age 19, he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and in his early twenties, became the executive chef at Le Serene in Los Angeles. In 1984, Yamaguchi opened his own restaurant in Los Angeles called 385 North, and he was chosen as the "California Chef of the Year" in 1986 and 1987 by the California Restaurant Writers Association. However, Roy desired to further expand his culinary horizons and longed to renew his acquaintance with Hawaii. In 1988, Roy returned to Hawaii and permanently moved to Oahu. It was there he opened the first Roy’s Restaurant, serving dishes based on the memories of the feelings and flavors of his upbringing. Dubbed "Hawaiian Fusion" cuisine by Yamaguchi himself, the food can be described as a combination of exotic flavors and spices mixed with the freshest of local ingredients with an emphasis on seafood.

Soon after Roy's opened, Food & Wine Magazine named it the "crown jewel of Honolulu's East-West eateries," and it made Conde Nast Traveler's "Top 50 Restaurants." Gourmet Magazine acknowledged Yamaguchi as "the father of modern East-West cooking" and the New York Times described him as "the Wolfgang Puck of the Pacific."

Location, Location, Location

The Roy's empire has now expanded to 31 Roy's Restaurants, including 22 in the Continental US, 6 in Hawaii, 2 in Japan and 1 in Guam. I recently had the chance to visit the downtown Los Angeles location, sample the legendary food, and speak with the executive chef, Curtis Mar, and the managing partner, Matt Dochin.

Elegantly positioned on Figueroa Street in the center of downtown, the restaurant is decorated with soft floral touches of the islands, warm colors, wooden accents and classic vertical lines. The bar is positioned to the right of the entrance, and provides a stylish place to enjoy a cocktail in anticipation for a table in the dining area.

Though the menu is available online, I will emphasize the website is only a hint of what each restaurant has to offer. I was pleasantly surprised and almost overwhelmed to find that along with about ten of Roy's signature dishes, there are 20-25 other versions of Roy’s Hawaiian Fusion cuisine, as well as a sushi menu serving both rolls and nigiri-style sushi. Chef Mar explained to me that at each Roy's location, the head chef has the freedom to create their own menu, but the signature dishes such as the "Hibachi Style Grilled Salmon" are always present.

The Meal Itself

With this in mind, my dining companion and I ordered one signature dish and one of the chef's creations during each course of the meal. I did not initially intend to order sushi, but I curious about presentation and freshness/flavor, so we decided on two nigiri appetizers, the unagi (eel) and the suzuki (sea bass), along with the Lobster Potstickers and the Oysters Rockefeller.

the suzuki nigiri

The sushi was attractively presented, and the unagi seemed to dance upon the squared plate which was garnished with just the right amount of sauce.

the unagi nigiri

I had never tried oysters before, but I marveled at how just one spoonful could pleasantly remind me of sitting in the ocean with sand running through my fingers! Generous enough to be shared, this selection is buttery, drizzled with an aioli-type sauce and bursting with the deep sea.

the Oysters Rockefeller

The Lobster Potstickers were skillfully plated on oblong china and kissed with black and white sesame seeds, but seemed to be coated in too much sauce and I could not taste the main presence of lobster, as the title of the appetizer indicates. Still, I was very impressed with the rest of the appetizers and looked forward to the next selection.

I chose one of Chef Mar's variations as my main course, the Lau Lau platter. Lau Lau is comprised of smoked pork, Hawaiian seasonings and taro leaves, and is traditionally served in a banana leaf.

the deconstructed lau lau platter

This particular presentation was served "deconstructed" in a bowl in the center of the plate. It was sitting in a sweet and savory sauce and topped with crunchy Asian noodles. To the left of the bowl, there were two colossal sea scallops, dusted with mochi, lightly seared, and finished with miso-butter sauce. To the right of the bowl, was a piece of Misoyaki Butterfish (black cod) served with a sake and citrus reduction. My friend ordered a Roy's signature dish, the Roasted Macadamia Nut Mahi Mahi with Lobster Butter Sauce. It was paired with a serving of Swordfish and Asparagus (on the menu, the Mahi Mahi there is also available without the Swordfish). I enjoyed every part of this course. The scallops were plump and tender. The pork, though not served the traditional style, stayed true to unique flavor of the Lau Lau dish. It was a perfect combination of smoky, sweet and savory flavors, and the meat was fleshy and not at all stringy. The butterfish portion of my course was another enhancement of the Lau Lau dish. It was grilled perfectly and was one of the most delicious servings of fish I have ever eaten. It was balanced on a dollop of mashed deep purple yams (I first thought the yams were mashed taro, but as I was discussing the meal with the managing partner , he informed me that it was not a taro but a dark sweet potato indigenous to Hawaii). If available upon another visit, I would select the butterfish by itself as the main course.


the macadamia nut mahi mahi and the swordfish

closeup of the mahi mahi

Another impressive highlight of the main courses was the Roasted Macadamia Nut Mahi Mahi. It was also flawlessly executed. On the remaining side of the platter my friend ordered was the swordfish. It was accompanied by a "katsu" banana. The banana was a delicious touch and was sweet enough to be served as a dessert item. Along with all the other fish dishes, the swordfish also had a very palatable flavor and matched in freshness. My friend and I agreed we preferred the mahi mahi, but that the butterfish that I had ordered was indeed the most delicious.

the melting hot chocolate souffle

To finish an already impressive and remarkably memorable feast, we decided on the Roy's signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé and an "omakase-style" Bento box of treats. The souffle was impressively presented free-standing in a small rounding stream of raspberry sauce and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. It was rich and decadent, but I was further delighted by the myriad of samples in the bento box!

the dessert omakase bento box

The bento contained a chocolate chip brownie with vanilla bean ice cream (a palm tree-shaped cookie tuille garnish) and caramel sauce. The next partition of the box accommodated a macadamia nut tart (much in the style of a small pecan pie), and a profiterole with coconut cream filling and chocolate sauce. Two of the partitions housed fresh pineapple, berries, and kiwi. Still another partition held green tea butter cookies and green tea ice cream in a mochi wrapper. In the center of the bento there was a serving of mango pudding with raspberry sauce hearts, and in the remaining partition there was a dish of tropical panna cotta prepared with cream cheese and orange scented milk. It was served with a chocolate macadamia nut biscotti. My favorite was the brownie, as the chocolate in it was even more delectable than the souffle. The dessert tray was another brilliant example of the fusion of traditional items and Hawaiian/Asian ingredients.

The presentations and the freshness of the meal are the true standouts of the dinner. I am curious about the differences in each location (both on the menus and in the decor). My interest is further piqued by rumors of a possible Sacramento or Roseville location opening (currently, the closest Roy's to Sacramento is in San Francisco). Along with the staple dishes, the establishments proudly bear the name of Roy Yamaguchi, a definitive culinary pioneer who cultivated a distinctive style previously unseen in Hawaii and the world.

I am back from LA and I have a ton of writing to do, but I wanted to post this useful bit of info. Election Day in CA is November 7th. I just got my CA Driver's license in the mail (so excited!! It's a good pic bwahaha, I am an organ donor and I registered to vote!). Such a privilege I am so happy to finally take part in, now that I reside officially! in Sacramento.
For a great resource with which to brush up on the issues go here: http://www.ss.ca.gov/elections/elections.htm
Do your homework!! If you aren't happy with the way things are politically, then raise your voice at the polls.